Iguanas
continue to be a popular pet; however, they can experience many problems if
husbandry is unsatisfactory. In order for your Iguana to thrive, several factors
need to be addressed. There are many different philosophies on Iguana nutrition,
which leads to much confusion. Outlined below are a few different examples:
DIET:
(#1 ) Vegetable diet-
Vegetables like broccoli (cooked spears), Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, romaine lettuce, mustard greens (cooked), soybeans, spinach (raw), sweet potatoes (baked without skin), and squash offer a good basis for the diet. A good balance between yellow and green type vegetables should be sought. Adding twenty to thirty percent mixed vegetables from the supermarket would be appreciated. This diet should be supplemented with vitamins and minerals two to three times a week.
(#2) Pelleted Diet-
The use of an Iguana pellet, like Zeiglers, supplemented with fifteen to twenty percent vegetables, has also proven to be adequate. There are other brands of pellets; however, at this point Zeiglers is the only brand that I am recommending.
TEMPERATURE:
The
environment must be kept between eighty-eight and one-hundred degrees. Providing
a temperature gradient allows the Iguana to self-regulate. This can easily be
done by utilizing a heat lamp, and monitoring the temperature throughout the
tank.
ULTRA
VIOLET LIGHT:
It
is imperative that a source of UV light be provided. Iguanas utilize very
specific radiation in order to produce vitamin D in their skin. The light must
be designed specifically for animals. The best source of UVB, currently
available, is made by ZOO MED. We carry these lights for your convenience. NOTE—These
lights are not the same as, the lights that allow for the growth of plants, and
they must provide fluorescent lighting. The ZOO MED lights can be at most,
twenty-four inches from your Iguana, and still be effective. The ZOO MED lights
have a life span of about, one year. Due to the short life span, of the ZOO MED
lights, you have to replace them annually. Glass, Plastic, or a fine-screen
filter the desirable UVB rays. Allowing your Iguana, direct access, not through
a window, to sunlight is desirable during the warmer months of the year. Recent
studies show that ZOO MED lights far surpass all other UVB light sources.
HUMIDITY:
Iguanas
do much better, in ninety to ninety-five percent humidity. This can be difficult
to achieve, but can be achieved by misting them with water or soaking them daily
in ninety to ninety-five degree water for fifteen minutes daily.
ALL OF
THESE FACTORS—DIET, TEMPERATURE, UV LIGHT AND HUMIDITY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO
HUSBANDRY.
NOTE--
ALWAYS WASH YOUR HANDS AFTER HANDELING REPTILES.
· Include equal amounts of: chopped apple, grapes or mango, carrot, sweet potato, hard-cooked egg yolk, zoo formula insectivore or exotic feline diet, plus one tablespoon volume of pet industry raised insects.
· Pet industry raised insects have been fed a commercial cricket diet or enriched feed.
· Or, owner can dust all insects, fruits and moist foods with a complete vitamin/mineral powder such as Vionate.
· Insects include meal worms, crickets, waxworms, moths.
· One tablespoon insects equals one dozen small meal worms or 4 small and 2 large waxworms.
· Nectars formulated for lories/lorikeets can be given as fruit-portion substitute or as a treat.
· Foods should be “chopped together” to decrease the ability of the glider to pick out only the favorite parts.
Sugar Glider Diet 2 (Feeds one sugar glider)
· 1 teaspoon-sized piece each, chopped: apple, carrot, sweet, potato, banana
· 1 teaspoon leaf lettuce
· ½ hard-cooked egg yolk
· 1 tablespoon Nebraska Feline Diet (or other good quality zoo feline diet such as ZuPreem or Mazuri)
· 1 dozen meal worms
Sugar Glider and Squirrel Glider Diet 3 (feeds 2 sugar gliders)
· 3 grams apple
· 3 grams banana/corn
· 1.5 grams dog kibble
· 1 tsp fly pupae
· 3 grams grapes/kiwi fruit
· 2 tsp Leadbeater’s mix
· 4 grams orange with skin
· 2 grams pear
· 2 grams rock melon/melon/pawpaw
· 3 grams sweet potato
· On Wednesdays: feed day-old chick; when available, large insects (meal worms)
Leadmeater’s mix:
450 ml warm water
450 ml honey
3 shelled, boiled eggs
75 grams high protein baby cereal
3 tsp vitamin/mineral supplement (Vionate)
Mix warm water and honey. In separate container, blend eggs until homogenized. To eggs, fradually add honey/water, then vitamin powder, then baby cereal, blending after each addition until smooth.
RECOMMENDED
CANINE VACCINATIONS & PROTOCOLS
This is commonly referred to as a distemper parvo vaccine. It includes canine distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, leptosporosis, and parvovirus. Canine distemper can cause nervous and respiratory disease while parvovirus causes bloody diarrhea, vomiting, and often death.
Bord-P is commonly known as KENNEL COUGH, a highly contagious respiratory syndrome often picked up in a kennel or from close contact with an affected individual. Coronavirus causes bloody diarrhea and vomiting, often contracted while your dog is walked and sniffs and ingests the stools of other dogs.
Rabies is a deadly disease that can infect animals and humans. It affects the nervous system and results in death. State law requires vaccination on a regular basis.
The
above vaccines are required for BOARDING
your pet at the Owings Mills Animal & Bird Hospital.
Lyme disease is transmitted by ticks and affects man as well as animals. It initially causes intermittent fever and vague signs of illness. As the disease progresses the organism can be very difficult to treat successfully and often causes insidious joint pain and other symptoms.
Heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. Adult heartworms complete their life cycle in the heart of a dog and can cause weight loss, difficulty breathing, and lethargy. The disease can be life threatening and is endemic in this area. Heartworm testing involves a blood test to detect the presence of this parasite in the heart. Once an animal has tested negative we put them on heartworm prevention. The prevention is a pill that is given monthly. It is recommended that heartworm prevention be given year round to ensure protection.
Lyme Disease testing is now part of our routine annual heartworm screening. Ehrlichia canis, which is also transmitted by ticks, can cause Ehrlichiosis. Ehrlichiosis can result in fever, lymph node enlargement, painful joints, bleeding disorders, vomiting and death if untreated. Testing for Ehrlichiosis is now part of our routine heartworm screening
We recommend checking fecal samples for intestinal parasites every six months to identify problems before they cause diarrhea and vomiting.
We have several different flea and tick preventive measures available for your pet. These include collars, topical spot on solutions, and oral preparations. We will discuss with you which products best suit your pet’s needs.
RECOMMENDED
FELINE VACCINATIONS AND PROTOCOLS
This includes feline distemper, rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and chlamydia. Feline distemper affects many parts of the body causing serious illness, often resulting in death. Rhinotracheitis, calicivirus and chlamydia are respiratory diseases that manifest themselves with sneezing, fever, dehydration, and ocular lesions. They often prevent a cat from eating, which further complicates matters.
Rabies is a deadly disease that can infect animals and humans. It affects the nervous system and results in death. State law requires vaccination.
Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) suppresses the cat’s immune system, leaving it unable to fight off other infections, such as pneumonia. Some cats exposed to the virus can recover while the majority either get sick immediately or become carriers. Carriers can transmit the virus to other cats for long periods of time before they become symptomatic. Once they begin showing signs of illness they live no longer than 3 years.
FELINE
LEUKEMIA VIRUS (FeLV) TESTING
FELINE
IMMUNODEFICIENCY VIRUS (FIV) TESTING
FIV is very similar to HIV in humans, and
is commonly referred to as feline AIDS. FeLV
and FIV pose one of the most serious threats to your cat because they can lay
dormant in your cat’s body for long periods of time before causing illness.
We routinely recommend screening cats for these viruses at their first
visit to identify affected individuals.
The
above vaccines and tests are required for BOARDING
and are considered routine.
(FIP)
FELINE INFECTIOUS PERITONITIS VACCINATION
FIP is immune mediated and can lay dormant
in your cat’s body for long periods of time.
Signs of the disease can be subtle at first, but eventually can lead to
accumulations of fluid in the chest cavity or the abdomen.
A more insidious form is called dry FIP, which has very little amounts of
fluid associated with it. This
vaccine is highly recommended for multi-cat households and out door individuals.
FIP TESTING
A blood test can be run to determine
your pets’ exposure to FIP and is recommended if they are at risk.
We recommend checking fecal samples for intestinal parasites every six months to identify problems before they cause diarrhea and vomiting.
We have several different flea and tick preventive measures available for your pet. These include collars, topical spot on solutions, and oral preparations. We will discuss with you which products best suit your pet’s needs.
Heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. Cats can become the definitive host resulting in respiratory symptoms. We recommend monthly heartworm prevention for all cats exposed to the outdoors.
There are two varieties of ferrets, based on coloration:
· “Fitch” ferrets are buff with black masks, feet, and tails.
· “Albino” ferrets are white with pink eyes.
· Females are called “Jills” and males are called “Hobs”.
· Baby ferrets are called “Kits:”
Ferrets are born deaf and blind. The period of pregnancy is 42 days. The “kits” eyes and ears open at 3-4 weeks of age. Their temporary teeth begin to erupt at 14 days of age, at which time they begin to eat solid food. The permanent teeth erupt at 47-52 days of age. The “kits” are weaned by the time they are 8 weeks old. They reach their adult weight at 4 months of age. The average life span of a pet ferret is 9 - 10 years.
“Hobs” are usually twice as large as “Jills”, but both sexes undergo weight fluctuations of 30-40% of their body weight. Fat is added in the fall, and lost in the spring.
Ferrets have paired musk producing glands besides the anal opening, which secretes when the animal is angry, excited, or in estrus (heat). These glands may be removed to reduce (not eliminate) the musky odor; which makes them a more pleasant pet. They do not have self-developed sweat glands, and are prone to heat stroke at a temperature above 90 degrees F.
Ferrets typically have good personalities and adapt well to human companionship, particularly if they have been raised from infancy in close human contact:
There is NO natural animosity between the ferret and the dog or cat. They are inquisitive and playful by nature. When given supervised freedom in which to satisfy their innate curiosity (and inclination to burrow), they need no special equipment. Some pet ferrets have even been trained to walk with a leash and harness. Because they tend to urinate and defecate in habitual places, they are easily trained to use a cat litter box.
· Kits should be dewormed at the time of initial vaccination.
· Yearly fecal examination should be performed by your veterinarian checking for any intestinal parasites.
· Flea products which are safe for cats should be used on ferrets.
· Ferrets are very susceptible to “ear mites” and should be examined often by the owner when other pets are in the household which could transfer this disease.
· Ferrets reach sexual maturity in the spring following their birth.
· Usually they are 9 - 12 months of age.
Continued…
· Breeding season is from March to August, but ferrets can be bred year-round if the light is controlled at 16 hours each day.
The Hobs’ breeding readiness is signaled by the descent of the testicles into the scrotum. The testicles remain in the scrotum ONLY during the breeding season. Unless breeding is planned, CASTRATION is RECOMMENDED at six months of age to decrease aggressiveness and the musky odor.
Onset of “estrus” (heat) in the “Jill” can be recognized by enlargement of the vulva. Ovulation induced by copulation (breeding), and if fertilization fails to occur, a “pseudo-pregnancy” of 42 days will occur. The “Jill” may remain in “estrus” for up to six months if copulation does NOT occur. “Jills” NOT INTENDED for breeding SHOULD BE SPAYED AT 6 MONTHS OF AGE!! Because they remain in “heat” for prolonged periods of time, a condition called HYPERESTROGENEMIA occurs. This causes fragile bones, ANEMIA, Poor Blood Clotting, and sometimes, DEATH!
· Pet ferrets are easily maintained with commercial ferret food. Ferrets have little, if any, capacity to digest fiber (basic component of most dog food). They do NOT need to eat mice or other rodents.
· Small bones should be withheld from the diet to prevent becoming lodged in the mouth, stomach, or intestine.
· Fresh water, in either a cup or drinking bottle, should be available at all times.
· Ferrets must be protected against CANINE DISTEMPER, which is contagious from dogs. Canine Distemper is FATAL in ferrets. The first signs include a lack of appetite and watery eyes. Vaccination should be started at 6-8 weeks of age. Booster immunizations must be given each year.
· Rabies vaccination should be administered ONLY BY A VETERINARIAN, beginning at 3 months of age. Yearly boosters are required.
· Ferrets are not susceptible to disease produced by Cat Distemper, Mink Enteritis, Canine Hepatitis, Feline Rhinotracheitis, or Feline Calicivirus. Vaccinations for these diseases are not needed.
REPTILE-ASSOCIATED
SALMONELLOSIS INFORMATION
What Is Salmonellas?
Salmonellas are an infectious disease of reptiles that is contagious to humans. Salmonella infections can result in a wide variety of symptoms in any animal including: inapparent infections, recovered carriers. diarrhea, generalized infections, abortion, and even death.
Regardless
of the outcome, Salmonella infection always represents a potential source for
the spread of the disease to humans. Salmonella is readily transferred from
animal to animal,
animal
to humans, and human to human by direct contact or indirect pathways.
General Comments Concerning Reptiles:
Reptiles
are popular pets in the U.S. An estimated 7.3 million pet reptiles are owned by
approximately 3% of all U.S. households.
Because
the most popular reptile species will not breed in close confinement, many
reptiles are captured in the wild and imported.
Important Facts About Reptile Associated Salmonellas:
·
Attempts to eliminate Salmonella in reptiles with antibiotics have
generally been unsuccessful.
·
Reptiles can be infected through the eggs before birth.
·
Reptiles can become infected from being around other reptiles
which are infected.
·
Reptiles may A high proportion of reptiles are asymptomatic
carriers of Salmonella.
·
Fecal contamination may be as high as 90%, yet few reptiles are
ill.
·
Attempts to eliminate Salmonella in reptiles with antibiotics may
lead to increased resistance to the antibiotics.
Who Should Avoid Contact With Reptiles?
The
following categories of people should avoid all contact, direct or indirect with
any reptile as the risks of serious infection with Salmonella is greatly
increased:
Infants
and children up to 5 years of age.
· Anyone with HIV/AIDS or other immunodeficiency disorders.
· Anyone who has had transplants surgery and is on anti-rejection therapy.
· Anyone who is on any drug which suppressed/alters immune function including: steroids, cancer chemotherapy, biological response modifiers, and others.
· Anyone receiving radiation treatment.
· The elderly, frail people, or people with poor nutritional status.
AVOIDING REPTILE ASSOCIATED DISEASES:
·
Salmonellas
is just one of several bacterial, fungal, and protozoan diseases that can
potentially cause disease in people. To
protect yourself and your family, follow these simple rules:
·
Have your
reptile examined by a veterinarian frequently. New reptiles should be examined
twice in the first year and annually thereafter.
·
Have
your reptile TESTED for Salmonellosis. Keep in mind that the test is not
perfect. A negative test is not
absolute proof that your reptile does not have the infection.
Nor does it mean the reptile will not become infected in the future.
Repeated cultures of fecal, cloacal, and water samples is more meaningful than a
single test. A POSITIVE TEST IS MEANINGFUL. Since it is very difficult to prove
that a reptile has been cleared of the infection after treatment, you may wish
to consider finding a new home for the Salmonella positive reptile.
·
After
handling any reptile, be sure to wash your hands with antibacterial soap and hot
water. Washing with water only is
not effective in eliminating Salmonella.
·
Keep
reptiles out of kitchens and away from areas where human food is prepared,
stored, or served. Do not touch food for human consumption after handling any
reptile or its accessories. Do not touch dishes, pots, pans, or other utensils
used for human food after touching any reptile or accessory.
·
Keep
reptile enclosures, water/food bowls, and surfaces as clean and sanitary as
possible.
·
Do not
permit unsupervised handling of reptiles by children under 12 years of age.
·
Teach
children to wash hands thoroughly after handling any reptile.
·
Do not
handle any reptile or their caging materials with open cuts, lesions (sores) on
hands, unless such cuts are well covered with dressings. RUBBER GLOVES ARE
RECOMMENDED.
·
Wear
rubber gloves & eye protection when washing reptile enclosures/accessories
to avoid splashes to the face.
·
Do not
use bathtubs; kitchen or bathroom sinks, or shower stalls for reptile-related
husbandry operations.
·
Do not
kiss your reptile.
·
Do not
eat, drink, or smoke while handling your reptile, its enclosure or accessories.
·
Reptiles
should not be kept in child-care facilities for pre-schoolers and toddlers.
·
Reptiles
kept in classrooms should not be handled unless appropriate handwashing and
clean-up facilities are available and made accessible to children & staff.